The Best of Canary Islands by Tim Atkin MW

 

Good morning, everyone.

Welcome to the first edition of what I hope will become a long and fruitful tradition for this unique wine region: The Best of Canary Islands.

It’s a real pleasure — and a bit of a dream — to be standing here today in Lanzarote, surrounded by so many passionate producers and professionals, and to finally see this idea come to life: an event that brings together, in one place, the incredible diversity, identity, and excellence of Canary Island wines.

As many of you know, I am lucky enough to visit wine regions all over the world. But I can honestly say that the Canary Islands are unlike any other. The landscape is dramatic. The volcanic soils, the wind, the atlantic influence, the isolation… everything about this place is extreme, and yet — or maybe because of that — the wines are so expressive, so full of character.

My first trip to the Canaries was in 2019, and since then I’ve been captivated. The more I dig into these wines, the more I realise how deep the roots go — culturally, historically, and viticulturally.

I’ve said before that history surrounds you at every turn in the Canary Islands — and standing here today, that feels truer than ever. Whether it’s the ancient vines, the traditional pruning methods, or the shipping records of Canary wine from the 1700s, the sense of legacy is everywhere.

On one visit to Tenerife, I held an invoice dated June 10, 1792, issued to the First Fleet heading to Australia — and what did it include? Canary wine. Because it was safer to drink at sea than water. So yes, these wines have been travelling the world for centuries.

But after that golden era, things got tough. From the mid-1800s, the vineyards went into decline. And yet, as it is so often the case with great wine stories, the comeback is the real tale.

Since the 1990s, and especially in the last decade, something remarkable is happening.

A new generation of growers and winemakers — many of whom are in this room — have rescued native varieties, have returned to the land and are bringing to live old and forgotten vineyards, and they have done so with vision, courage, and authenticity. In January and March this year, when I was here for the tastings, I had the chance to step onto some outstanding vineyards in Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote – the work and persistence to maintain this heritage is admirable.

Before I go on, I’d also like to thank the four speakers who just shared their different insights this morning — Sergio, Fabio, Bárbara and Orlando — for setting the tone so thoughtfully from their different connections to the wine world. Your words reflect the energy, the challenges, and the shared sense of purpose and possibilities that make this region so exciting.

Today, the Canaries are home to some of the most fascinating wines in Europe. You’ll taste Listán Blanco, Negramoll, Baboso, Malvasía, Albillo Criollo, Verijadiego, Marmajuelo… Nearly none of these grapes grow anywhere else. And what excites me is that these wines are not just different — they are exceptional.

This tasting is a celebration of that achievement.

We have nearly 200 wines here today, from over 40 producers, representing 5 islands. That in itself is historic. This is the first time such a comprehensive showcase has been set up — and I want to pause for a moment to acknowledge that:

To all the bodegas, thank you.

Thank you for trusting me — for sending your wines, for answering my endless questions, for sharing your stories with me. And above all, for making wines that speak of your land, your culture, and your effort. Some of you work in conditions that I can only describe as heroic. You climb into ravines, you fight the wind, you dig into pure ash, you farm pre-phylloxera vines by hand. And you just create something beautiful.

It’s also a joy to see both well-established producers and new voices here today — some familiar, some just emerging. Each one of you contributes something essential to the larger story. And what’s powerful is not just the individuality of your wines, but the collective momentum you’re building.

If I have one wish for this event, it’s that it becomes a meeting place — not just between producers and professionals, but between islands. Because while each island has its own character, its own pride — and sometimes, yes, a little rivalry — I truly believe that the Canary Islands together are stronger than any island alone.

With just 1,14% of Spain’s vineyard area, this is a small region in scale, but a giant in originality.

My hope is that today you’ll taste, talk, connect between islands, and maybe even fall in love — as I did — with the stories these wines are telling. Wines of identity, of resilience, of beauty.

And now, it’s time to acknowledge the hard work behind those stories.

I am about to hand over the Canary Islands Wine Awards 2025, recognising some of the most outstanding wines and personalities from this year’s tastings. These are not just medals. They are a reflection of quality, of commitment, and of the potential that this region holds.

Awards J ….

 

So once again — thank you for being here, thank you for believing in this project, and most of all, thank you for making wines that matter.

“Lo Mejor de las Islas Canarias” should become an annual date for all of us – I hope today is just the beginning of something extraordinary.

Enjoy the tasting.